Red Gold

The second World’s Fair held in the U.S., Philadelphia’s Centennial International Exposition, commemorated the 100th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence’s signing. While the time and place were incredibly synergistic, so was the connection between Philly and ketchup.

That’s because in 1812 local scientist James Mease developed the first-known ketchup recipe that featured tomatoes (then known as “love apples” for their supposed aphrodisiac qualities). A major difference between his concoction and the condiment we know today was the absence of its vinegary tang.

Ketchup, however, pre-dates both Mease and tomatoes. Its roots go back to imperial China, where documents dating to 300 BCE mention fermented pastes derived from soybeans, meat by-products, and fish entrails. 

Speakers of the Southern Min dialect called the fish sauce “ge-thcup” or “koe-cheup.” Guaranteed not to spoil on long voyages at sea, this version of ketchup was preferred by Hokkien Chinese sailors and introduced to those in ports of call along the Indian and Pacific Oceans. 

By the late 1600s, British traders had acquired a taste for the condiment. Its arrival in their homeland led to a wide variety of mutations, including pastes made from mollusks, mushrooms, nuts, lemons, plums, or peaches.

Regardless of the base, these recipes were either boiled until thick and syrupy or mixed with salt. Both processes had the same result: a highly concentrated form that was shelf-stable for long periods.

At the 1876 Centennial Exposition, 30 years after Mease’s death, Henry John Heinz showed off his take on tomato-based ketchup in the fair’s Agriculture Hall. Though both men’s recipes had commonalities — namely, tomatoes and spices — Heinz preferred vinegar over brandy and added brown sugar. 

Heinz’s modest booth put his business on the path to success, thanks to over 10 million fair attendees. The fledgling H. J. Heinz Company was the 32-year-old’s second entrepreneurial endeavor. His initial foray saw him bottling his mother’s horseradish recipe.

While that company subsequently expanded into pickles, mustard, and fruit preserves, it failed in the wake of the Panic of 1873. The financial crisis resulted in a prolonged depression throughout North America and Europe. By 1876, however, Heinz was back in business upon receiving financial backing from two of his brothers. Fortunately for him, the second time was the charm. 

Speaking of charms, that segues into Heinz’s second appearance at a World’s Fair. His company returned for the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago, which drew hundreds of thousands of visitors daily. While The H.J. Heinz Company had the largest commercial food booth at the fair, it was relegated to a no man’s land — the Agriculture Building’s second floor.

Understanding that people wouldn't bother to climb the stairs without an incentive, Heinz leveraged his shrewd marketing skills. To drive traffic, he hired local youth to blanket the fairground with gilded tags entitling recipients to a free souvenir when redeemed at his booth. 

So many clamored for a plastic pickle-shaped pocket watch charm that a line formed down the stairs, and police were summoned to maintain order. Reportedly the second floor began to sag due to the unexpected crowd and had to be shored up. Heinz gave away over a million pickle charms by the end of the five-month-long fair. Emblazoned with his last name, the tchotchke provided Heinz with free advertising long after booth visitors had returned home. 

This tactic was but one example of Heinz’s savvy. To compete against companies like Hunts, Heinz committed to only using the highest-quality ingredients. He sourced the best tomatoes available and processed them at the peak of freshness. Heinz also implemented strict production standards that guaranteed every ketchup bottle offered a uniform taste and texture, something many competitors couldn’t match.

Though it seems like a small thing now, perhaps Heinz’s most notable innovation was the introduction of clear glass bottles. In an era when spoiled ketchup could surprise consumers, this transparency demonstrated that Heinz was a high-quality product.

Heinz’s zeal culminated in the company winning two gold medals for product quality and factory conditions at Paris’ Exposition Universelle Internationale in 1900. Ooh la la.